Brooder Tips

In the series on Incubation and Hatching Tips, I share my basic brooder set up. Since then, we have refined the set-up for even more ease and efficiency. Keep in mind, I have six brooders full at a time — one for every week of age — so ease and efficiency matter.

We recently started lining the brooders with puppy pads, which absorb moisture and make clean up so much easier. We put the pads down first and then top with a thin layer of wood pellets and pine shavings. When it is time to clean, we simply fold the pad in from the corners to contain the mess, lift it up, dump the pellets and poo into the compost, and toss the pad.

 

Chicks above the age of three weeks live in wire cages or dog kennels, as opposed to the solid-sided brooders that the hatchlings and tiny chicks live in. To keep the draft off the ones in the wire cages, I’ve started to use these triangle high-corner pet boxes as beds.

I’ve mentioned this before, but it’s important, so I’ll repeat: in the heat lamp is a ceramic reptile bulb. It is much safer as the bulb is recessed into the fixture. Also, it doesn’t give off light, so they learn to sleep at night.

I’m also happy with the hanging rabbit feeder. It doesn’t stop them from kicking food out, but it does reduce the amount of poo and bedding that gets kicked in as it is off the ground. I put greens and grass in the back part and crumble in the front.

On the other end of the cage, I set the hanging feeder and watering set-up. My chicks start off with a rabbit-waterer because I dislike cleaning bedding out of the water dish every two minutes. You can see the nozzle of the waterer in the upper right, above the bedding box which I am using as a drip-tray. Super easy to toss in new pellets or simply scoop out the old damp pellets.



If this has been a helpful post, please share it on social media to help spread it around -- tag @FlowerFeatherFarm -- and/or leave a comment to make me happy.
Suzanne

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Natural Farm Feeds